【クール配送】クレメンス・ブッシュ リースリング マリーエンブルク・ファーライ グローセス・ゲヴェックス [2017]750ml (白ワイン) 大幅に値引き

コレクションする価値のある素晴らしいワインです。
目もくらむような急斜面から生まれる極上のリースリング!

クレメンス・ブッシュは、目もくらむような急斜面のテラッセン・モーゼルにおいて、不可能と思われていたビオディナミを実践し、けた外れに力のあるリースリングを産み出した先駆者です。

1974年より祖父の手ほどきを受けながらワイン造りを始めた現当クレメンスは、現在16haの畑を所有している。畑の大部分は川を挟んでワイナリーの正面に広がるピュンダリッヒャー・マリーエンブルクにあり、南―南東向きグレースレート主体の急斜面からにテラッセン・モーゼルの芸術品とも呼べるワインを生み出しています。

「リースリング マリーエンブルク・ファーライ グローセス・ゲヴェックス」は、ワイン名はフェリーを意味する「Fahr」とスレートを意味する「Lay」という言葉から作られていて、南向きのこの区画に隣接するモーゼル川をフェリーが横断している様子が浮かぶ。ブルースレート主体の土壌で、樹齢25-75年のブドウが植わっている。

砂糖漬けにした黄色系果実のアロマ。力強いクリーミーなテクスチャーがジューシーさを際立たせ、塩味を伴う長いフィニッシュにつながる。

テクニカル情報
種類：White
産地：Mosel
ブドウ品種：リースリング100%
醸造・熟成：1000Lの古樽でゆっくりと発酵、澱と共に8ヶ月熟成
アルコール度数：12.5%
残糖：6.8g/L

Clemens Busch Riesling Marienburg Fahrlay GROSSES GEWACHS
クレメンス・ブッシュ リースリング マリーエンブルク・ファーライ グローセス・ゲヴェックス
生産地：ドイツ モーゼル
原産地呼称：gU. MOSEL
ぶどう品種：リースリング 100%
アルコール度数：12.5%
味わい：白ワイン 辛口

ワインアドヴォケイト：95 ポイント
Rating 95 Release Price NA Drink Date 2020 - 2040 Reviewed by Stephan Reinhardt Issue Date 29th Jun 2019 Source Issue 243 End of June 2019， The Wine Advocate
From vines that are 75+ years old， surrounding the famous Terrassen selection， the 2017 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling GG Fahrlay opens with an intense， upfront， aromatic and highly concentrated nose of Riesling and mirabelle fruit intermingled with dark flint and silex aromas of crushed stones. On the palate， this is a rich， generous， lush， mouth-filling but also very intense and concentrated Riesling with lots of grip and power and lingering salinity. This is a long， complex and highly promising Fahrlay that needs another year to shine for the first time. A great wine worth collecting. Tasted in March 2019.

Clemens Busch cannot remember having experienced spring frost so late and even in the steepest vineyards. However， the following weeks have compensated for the loss. To Busch， 2017 was a "good season": warm yet not extraordinarily warm. "We picked nothing but healthy grapes but really ripe ones with thin and transparent skins but not that much sugar." Harvest started in the middle of September (like in 2018) and went four weeks. In October， wild boars ate grapes "worth 8，000 to 10，000 liters" even in the very best vineyards. The picked grapes were macerated for six to 12 hours， but sometimes， as Busch remarks， "the maceration started already on the vine because the skins of the berries were so thin." After a slow and gentle pressing， the must was vinified in large traditional fuder barrels (all the crus and the Roter Schiefer) or in stainless steel. The fermentations went well and pretty quickly and were finished in February/March 2018. "Roughly 50%" of the wines made a spontaneous malolactic fermentation， which was good for the assemblage. The basic Rieslings fermented up to no more than 10.5% alcohol， due to the late flowering after the May frost and the late budding， and were racked and bottled in August; the rest， including the 2016 Reserve wines， were racked and bottled only after the harvest in November. "Before， the wines didnt deliver what we were expecting from them，" says Busch. Spatlesen and Auslesen were made from highly ripe "yet not overripe or botrytized grapes." All in all， Busch is totally surprised about the style and class of his 2017s， which he expected to be "much more opulent and less mineral."

Highlights of the current portfolio include the 2016 Reserve Rieslings from the Marienburg (namely the Fahrlay)， which aged on the lees for two years. Among the 2017s， the Raffes stands out， closely followed by the Felsterrasse， Fahrlay Terrassen and the Falkenlay. Among the Auslesen， readers can pick their favorite terroir， and they will be very lucky in any case. For the first time， I reviewed an "Orange" wine here (after some experiences with sulfur-free wines in the last few years)， and the still-untamed result is quite promising in a year that cant reach the high level of precision and terroir expression of the regular Busch wines.